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Women in Mountaineering  

 
Centennial Campaign
Mountain Culture
Centennial Events Facilities
Mountaineering Leadership
Past ACC Presidents        


Women who have made a difference to the Mountaineering Community

October 12 at the Banff Centre
Professional Development Centre Rooms 102 and 103
7 p.m. (reception) and 7:30 p.m. (presentation)

This event is sponsored by

How did you ever get there in the first place?
You may know what they have done, but do you know how they got there?

Come join us for an evening of fun with some of North America's best female climbers who have found the spirit of the mountains irresistible. Women who have made a difference in the world of climbing and mountains will share amusing anecdotes via an informal panel presentation, to be followed by a lively question and answer period. This panel will be chaired by Eliza Moran, president of the UIAA Mountaineering Commission.

Speakers include:

From Canada:  
   

Sharon Wood — first North American woman to climb Everest

Mount Everest was a culmination of an odyssey that began at age 12 when Sharon’s father took her up her first mountain. By the time she was 17, she was devoting all her time to climbing. Laurie Skreslet met Sharon at Outward Bound and knew she was out of the ordinary. “It was obvious to me the moment I saw her that she was committed, grounded, determined, focused, persevering… overflowing with potential.”

Her first break came in l977 when she joined an all-women’s expedition to Mount Logan. Then in l983 she had her first big success with the Cassin Ridge on Mount McKinley which “really changed my attitude. I didn’t see myself so much as a woman but as a climbing partner. I came back with a lot of confidence.” Expeditions to Makalu (1984), the south face of Aconcagua (1984), and the northeast face of Huascaran Sur (1985) followed. By 1986 she realized that she was “ready for anything.” Her ascent of Mount Everest by the difficult west ridge and north face was first for a North American woman, but as her friend Albi Sole recalled, “It’s not because she was a woman that she got to the top, it’s because she was the right person for the job….”

After Everest she had moved on to other adventures. Much in demand as a public speaker, she travels North America sharing her experiences and her approach to risk. In l988 she married and is now raising a family. Much of her time nowadays is taken up organizing a private school she started in her home town of Canmore, Alberta. In l997 Sharon received the Summit of Excellence Award at the Banff Mountain Film Festival.

Sharon explained her motives in a recent interview. “The constants that I have tried to maintain through all of these things are …the steep learning curve, the intensity, perhaps a certain degree of risk… and tremendous adventure… and that ongoing, never ending quest for self knowledge”. — from Chic Scott’s Pushing the Limits

 

Bernadette McDonald — former vice president of Mountain Culture at the Banff Centre

Bernadette McDonald is the former vice president, Mountain Culture, at The Banff Centre. Within that division, Bernadette was director of the Banff Mountain Film Festival, now in its 31st year, and founding director of the Banff Mountain Book Festival.

Bernadette has degrees in English literature and music, with specialization in performance and analytical theory. She spent two years in the music program at The Banff Centre performing contemporary music with her ensemble, Fusion 5.

Bernadette has taught music privately and at the college level. She spent six years with Jasper National Park before moving to the Banff Mountain Film Festival. She was director of the festival since 1988, as well as acting as festival juror on festivals around the world. During her time with the Festival, it grew from a weekend film event to a 12-month, global touring program with an international program of films, authors, speakers, and exhibitions spanning seven continents. Bernadette is the co-editor of Voices From the Summit: The World’s Great Mountaineers on the Future of Climbing, published by National Geographic, is author of a chapter on heli-skiing in a National Geographic publication, is editor of Extreme Landscape, and co-editor of Whose Water Is It. She is author of Ritratti dalle vette, alpinisti fotografati da Craig Richards, published in Italian in 2003. Her most recent book is I’ll Call You in Kathmandu: The Elizabeth Hawley Story, published in 2005 by The Mountaineers Books.

Bernadette is past chair of the board of trustees for the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies, and a founding member of the International Alliance for Mountain Film. She was an invited speaker at the General Assembly of the United Nations in 2001 to launch International Year of Mountains.

Bernadette spends most of her discretionary time in the mountains, climbing, ski touring, hiking and riding. These travels have taken her to the mountains of Japan, South America, Africa, Europe, and Tibet, as well as the North American Ranges.

   

Nancy Hansen — first woman (and sixth person) to climb the fifty-four 11,000-foot peaks in the Canadian Rockies

Nancy is an avid climber whose passion for the sport continues to grow after 13 years of intense involvement. She is an all-around climber who enjoys every aspect of the sport — mountaineering, ski touring, rock and ice climbing. Being a “list person”, Nancy discovered a few Canadian Rockies climbing lists and set out to tick them off.

The ones she has so far completed are:

* 2002 — first person to climb a rock route on the 1000-foot (300-metre) high face of Mt. Yamnuska every month in a calendar year. Easiest route climbed was Redshirt (5.7). Most difficult was Dreambed (5.11b)
* 2003 — first and only female (and sixth person) to climb all 54 peaks over 11,000 feet (3350 metres) in the Canadian Rockies
* 2005 — first and only female (and sixth person) to climb all 34 routes on Mt. Yamnuska as listed in the 1977 Urs Kallen guidebook to the mountain

   

Helen Sovdat — Helen is a certified IFMGA guide and is currently based in the Canadian Rockies.

Helen is a certified IFMGA guide and is currently based in the Canadian Rockies. She has worked in the mountains for nearly 20 years as a helicopter ski guide and mountain guide. She is an instructor with the ACMG ski guide program, Thompson Rivers University, and the ACC leadership development courses. She has a colourful history of climbing and ski mountaineering adventures including a series of ski traverses in the Coast Range of B.C. pioneering a “Haute Route” over 500 kilometres long, from Bella Coola to Vancouver. Helen leads international expeditions all over the world and has visited Peru, Bolivia, Nepal, and Mongolia with her groups. Some personal expeditions include Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, and Mount Logan.
   

Jillian Roulet

Jillian Roulet works for Parks Canada and is the Superintendent of Banff National Park. She holds a Masters degree in Regional Planning and Resource Management.

Jillian has lived and worked in the Rocky Mountain National parks for over 15 years. She got to the Rocky mountains through a rather circuitous route. She has worked for national parks and national historic sites in Ontario, Alberta, British Columbia and the Northwest Territories. Management positions have included Senior Policy Advisor for the seven mountain parks, and Director of cultural and natural resource management for national parks and historic sites in Alberta and British Columbia.

Jillian has a love of the outdoors and of mountains. She is an avid hiker, backpacker and skier.

   
From the USA:  

Charlotte Fox — only American woman to have three 8,000-metre ascents on her resume

Charlotte is a self proclaimed Southern Belle from North Carolina who moved to Aspen Colorado, for a summer, a couple of weeks after graduating from college. Twenty-seven years later she's still here and loving it more than ever. Charlotte is a 23-year member of the Snowmass Ski Patrol, where her black lab, Max, also works as an avalanche rescue dog.

In 1996, shebecame the first American woman to climb three 8000-metre peaks (Everest, Cho Oyu, and the first American woman to climb Gasherbrum II). Charlotte still rock and ice climbs on a regular basis, but has been sidetracked at home the last few years (and hasn’t really been back to the Greater Ranges). That is about to change!

Charlotte was on the board of the Access Fund for seven years and is currently on the board of the American Alpine Club.

   

Deb Gawrych — former president of USA Climbing

Debra J. Gawrych, MBA, has been a dynamic change-agent for over 26 years. Her work spans consulting, executive coaching, team-building, organizational development, and leading change. She is also the founder and CEO of Common Boundaries, a management/leadership consulting company whose purpose is to promote authentic leadership skills at both the individual and organizational levels. Debra is a nationally-known consultant and speaker who has appeared on numerous television and radio shows. With a motivation to bring the idea of leadership to a more personal level, Debra coaches her clients through experiences that are transformational, for not only the workplace, but one’s personal life as well. She engages her clients to discover their authentic selves in order to take charge of their lives to achieve their highest potential.

Under her direction, clients gain self-awareness through personality assessments, dynamic experiential work on power and purpose, and interactive exercises that teach skills for respectful confrontation. It is the combination of these elements that provide clients practical tools to lead more powerful lives. She has appeared in numerous newspaper and magazine articles including Today’s American Woman, The Business Journal, BizLife, Women’s Sports Foundation, and the Cincinnati Enquirer. As president of USA Climbing, she transformed a faltering organization into a powerhouse national governing body, growing from 800 to 7,000 members. She is currently involved with efforts to bring climbing into the Olympics, and meets extensively with international leaders in Europe, Asia, and Central and South America. The lessons she has learned and communicates about power and transformative change are firsthand and timely for any organization wanting to go to the next level.

Debra is also an accomplished public speaker and the author of two publications: bestselling The Seven Aspects of Sisterhood: Empowering Women Through Self-Discovery and Lead From the Inside Out. She currently lives in south Florida after relocating from North Carolina.

   

Kim Reynolds — founder, Chicks with Picks

When Kim Reynolds began climbing ice in 1982, she knew of few women who engaged in this unique and aesthetic sport. Despite the fact that more and more women began to try ice climbing over the years, it remained a male-dominated activity. Over time, Kim saw few opportunities for women to learn from women guides in a fun, supportive, safe, and non-intimidating environment. Thus, the idea of Chicks with Picks was born in 1999. In addition to helping women learn to ice climb, Kim has been inspired to use this opportunity to raise money and awareness for a local woman’s shelter and promote the idea of women helping women.

Kim has been an adventurer and outdoor instructor since 1979. She has worked as an Outward Bound instructor, course director, ice climbing guide, Antarctic survival instructor, Aspen ski patrol, and Himalayan trek leader. Alongside Chicks with Picks, Kim started a new program in 2001 called Mind Over Mountains (adventure retreats for women). In 1998 she was the expedition leader on a Himalayan first ascent that raised over $70,000 for the Friendship House, a Nepali safe house for girls at risk. Since then, she and her husband Jim Nowak started The dZi Foundation, a small non-profit foundation dedicated to health, education, culture and welfare of Himalayan mountain communities.

 

 

 
   
 
 
    Preserving, practicing and promoting Canadian mountain culture and self-propelled alpine pursuits.