Women
who have made a difference to the Mountaineering Community
October 12 at the Banff Centre
Professional Development Centre Rooms 102
and 103
7 p.m. (reception) and 7:30 p.m. (presentation)
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This event is sponsored by
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How
did you ever get there in the first place?
You may know what they have done, but do you know how they got there?
Come join us for an evening of fun
with some of North America's best female climbers who have found the
spirit of the mountains irresistible. Women who have made a difference
in the world of climbing and mountains will
share amusing anecdotes via an informal panel presentation, to be followed
by a lively question and answer period. This panel will be chaired by
Eliza Moran, president of the UIAA Mountaineering Commission.
Speakers include:
| From Canada: |
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Sharon Wood — first North American
woman to climb Everest |
Mount Everest was a culmination of an odyssey
that began at age 12 when Sharon’s father took her up her
first mountain. By the time she was 17, she was devoting all her
time to climbing. Laurie Skreslet met Sharon at Outward Bound
and knew she was out of the ordinary. “It was obvious to
me the moment I saw her that she was committed, grounded, determined,
focused, persevering… overflowing with potential.”
Her first break came in l977 when she joined an all-women’s
expedition to Mount Logan. Then in l983 she had her first big
success with the Cassin Ridge on Mount McKinley which “really
changed my attitude. I didn’t see myself so much as a
woman but as a climbing partner. I came back with a lot of confidence.”
Expeditions to Makalu (1984), the south face of Aconcagua (1984),
and the northeast face of Huascaran Sur (1985) followed. By
1986 she realized that she was “ready for anything.”
Her ascent of Mount Everest by the difficult west ridge and
north face was first for a North American woman, but as her
friend Albi Sole recalled, “It’s not because she
was a woman that she got to the top, it’s because she
was the right person for the job….”
After Everest she had moved on to other adventures. Much in
demand as a public speaker, she travels North America sharing
her experiences and her approach to risk. In l988 she married
and is now raising a family. Much of her time nowadays is taken
up organizing a private school she started in her home town
of Canmore, Alberta. In l997 Sharon received the Summit of Excellence
Award at the Banff Mountain Film Festival.
Sharon explained her motives in a recent interview. “The
constants that I have tried to maintain through all of these
things are …the steep learning curve, the intensity, perhaps
a certain degree of risk… and tremendous adventure…
and that ongoing, never ending quest for self knowledge”.
— from Chic Scott’s Pushing the Limits
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Bernadette McDonald — former vice
president of Mountain Culture at the Banff Centre |
Bernadette McDonald is the former vice
president, Mountain Culture, at The Banff Centre. Within that
division, Bernadette was director of the Banff Mountain Film Festival,
now in its 31st year, and founding director of the Banff Mountain
Book Festival. Bernadette has degrees in English literature
and music, with specialization in performance and analytical
theory. She spent two years in the music program at The Banff
Centre performing contemporary music with her ensemble, Fusion
5.
Bernadette has taught music privately and at the college level.
She spent six years with Jasper National Park before moving
to the Banff Mountain Film Festival. She was director of the
festival since 1988, as well as acting as festival juror on
festivals around the world. During her time with the Festival,
it grew from a weekend film event to a 12-month, global touring
program with an international program of films, authors, speakers,
and exhibitions spanning seven continents. Bernadette is the
co-editor of Voices From the Summit: The World’s Great
Mountaineers on the Future of Climbing, published by National
Geographic, is author of a chapter on heli-skiing in a National
Geographic publication, is editor of Extreme Landscape,
and co-editor of Whose Water Is It. She is author of Ritratti
dalle vette, alpinisti fotografati da Craig Richards, published
in Italian in 2003. Her most recent book is I’ll Call
You in Kathmandu: The Elizabeth Hawley Story, published in 2005
by The Mountaineers Books.
Bernadette is past chair of the board of trustees for the Whyte
Museum of the Canadian Rockies, and a founding member of the
International Alliance for Mountain Film. She was an invited
speaker at the General Assembly of the United Nations in 2001
to launch International Year of Mountains.
Bernadette spends most of her discretionary time in the mountains,
climbing, ski touring, hiking and riding. These travels have
taken her to the mountains of Japan, South America, Africa,
Europe, and Tibet, as well as the North American Ranges. |
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Nancy Hansen — first woman (and sixth
person) to climb the fifty-four 11,000-foot peaks in the Canadian
Rockies |
Nancy is an avid climber whose
passion for the sport continues to grow after 13 years of intense
involvement. She is an all-around climber who enjoys every aspect
of the sport — mountaineering, ski touring, rock and ice
climbing. Being a “list person”, Nancy discovered
a few Canadian Rockies climbing lists and set out to tick them
off. The ones she has so far completed are:
* 2002 — first person to climb a rock route on the 1000-foot
(300-metre) high face of Mt. Yamnuska every month in a calendar
year. Easiest route climbed was Redshirt (5.7). Most difficult
was Dreambed (5.11b)
* 2003 — first and only female (and sixth person) to climb
all 54 peaks over 11,000 feet (3350 metres) in the Canadian
Rockies
* 2005 — first and only female (and sixth person) to climb
all 34 routes on Mt. Yamnuska as listed in the 1977 Urs Kallen
guidebook to the mountain |
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Helen Sovdat — Helen is a certified
IFMGA guide and is currently based in the Canadian Rockies. |
Helen is a certified IFMGA
guide and is currently based in the Canadian Rockies. She has
worked in the mountains for nearly 20 years as a helicopter ski
guide and mountain guide. She is an instructor with the ACMG ski
guide program, Thompson Rivers University, and the ACC leadership
development courses. She has a colourful history of climbing and
ski mountaineering adventures including a series of ski traverses
in the Coast Range of B.C. pioneering a “Haute Route”
over 500 kilometres long, from Bella Coola to Vancouver. Helen
leads international expeditions all over the world and has visited
Peru, Bolivia, Nepal, and Mongolia with her groups. Some personal
expeditions include Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, and Mount Logan. |
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Jillian Roulet
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Jillian Roulet works for Parks Canada and
is the Superintendent of Banff National Park. She holds a Masters
degree in Regional Planning and Resource Management.
Jillian has lived and worked in the Rocky Mountain National
parks for over 15 years. She got to the Rocky mountains through
a rather circuitous route. She has worked for national parks
and national historic sites in Ontario, Alberta, British Columbia
and the Northwest Territories. Management positions have included
Senior Policy Advisor for the seven mountain parks, and Director
of cultural and natural resource management for national parks
and historic sites in Alberta and British Columbia.
Jillian has a love of the outdoors and of mountains. She is
an avid hiker, backpacker and skier.
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Charlotte Fox — only American woman
to have three 8,000-metre ascents on her resume |
Charlotte is a self proclaimed
Southern Belle from North Carolina who moved to Aspen
Colorado, for a summer, a couple of weeks after graduating from
college. Twenty-seven years later she's still here and loving
it more than ever. Charlotte is a 23-year member of the Snowmass
Ski Patrol, where her black lab, Max, also works as an avalanche
rescue dog.
In 1996, shebecame the first American woman to climb three
8000-metre peaks (Everest, Cho Oyu, and the first American woman
to climb Gasherbrum II). Charlotte still rock and ice climbs
on a regular basis, but has been sidetracked at home the last
few years (and hasn’t really been back to the Greater
Ranges). That is about to change!
Charlotte was on the board of the Access Fund for seven years
and is currently on the board of the American Alpine Club. |
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Deb Gawrych — former president of
USA Climbing |
Debra J. Gawrych, MBA, has
been a dynamic change-agent for over 26 years. Her work spans
consulting, executive coaching, team-building, organizational
development, and leading change. She is also the founder and CEO
of Common Boundaries, a management/leadership consulting company
whose purpose is to promote authentic leadership skills at both
the individual and organizational levels. Debra is a nationally-known
consultant and speaker who has appeared on numerous television
and radio shows. With a motivation to bring the idea of leadership
to a more personal level, Debra coaches her clients through experiences
that are transformational, for not only the workplace, but one’s
personal life as well. She engages her clients to discover their
authentic selves in order to take charge of their lives to achieve
their highest potential.
Under her direction, clients gain self-awareness through personality
assessments, dynamic experiential work on power and purpose,
and interactive exercises that teach skills for respectful confrontation.
It is the combination of these elements that provide clients
practical tools to lead more powerful lives. She has appeared
in numerous newspaper and magazine articles including Today’s
American Woman, The Business Journal, BizLife, Women’s
Sports Foundation, and the Cincinnati Enquirer. As president
of USA Climbing, she transformed a faltering organization into
a powerhouse national governing body, growing from 800 to 7,000
members. She is currently involved with efforts to bring climbing
into the Olympics, and meets extensively with international
leaders in Europe, Asia, and Central and South America. The
lessons she has learned and communicates about power and transformative
change are firsthand and timely for any organization wanting
to go to the next level.
Debra is also an accomplished public speaker and the author
of two publications: bestselling The Seven Aspects of Sisterhood:
Empowering Women Through Self-Discovery and Lead From the Inside
Out. She currently lives in south Florida after relocating from
North Carolina. |
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Kim Reynolds — founder, Chicks with
Picks |
When Kim Reynolds began climbing
ice in 1982, she knew of few women who engaged in this unique
and aesthetic sport. Despite the fact that more and more women
began to try ice climbing over the years, it remained a male-dominated
activity. Over time, Kim saw few opportunities for women to learn
from women guides in a fun, supportive, safe, and non-intimidating
environment. Thus, the idea of Chicks with Picks was born in 1999.
In addition to helping women learn to ice climb, Kim has been
inspired to use this opportunity to raise money and awareness
for a local woman’s shelter and promote the idea of women
helping women.
Kim has been an adventurer and outdoor instructor since 1979.
She has worked as an Outward Bound instructor, course director,
ice climbing guide, Antarctic survival instructor, Aspen ski
patrol, and Himalayan trek leader. Alongside Chicks with Picks,
Kim started a new program in 2001 called Mind Over Mountains
(adventure retreats for women). In 1998 she was the expedition
leader on a Himalayan first ascent that raised over $70,000
for the Friendship House, a Nepali safe house for girls at risk.
Since then, she and her husband Jim Nowak started The dZi Foundation,
a small non-profit foundation dedicated to health, education,
culture and welfare of Himalayan mountain communities. |
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