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| THE SILVER ICE AXE |
Alpine Club of Canada - Jasper/Hinton Section Newsletter
The following are excerpts from the November 1998 newsletter.
After a great summer it is time to get ready for a busy winter. We have prepared a full newsletter with reports of the sections summer activities and our plans for the winter. The club had a busy summer with over 16 trips and 66 participants. Climbs included Edith Cavell, Pedrix, Wilcox, Utopia, Peveril and Coleman. Members took to canyoneering in Morro, Palisades and Garonne Canyons. Five people participated in a two-day summer leadership course given by Peter Amann at the ice fields. In the newsletter you will find news of first ascents in the Jasper area and reports from a few of club trips. Last but not least you will find the section's winter schedule.
Section Meeting and Slide Show - Ascent of Cho Oyu - 8201m
Monday November 23 - 7 PM
ACC member Marg Saul of Calgary will give a slide presentation about her 1996 expedition to this Nepal/Tibet border peak on the north side of the Himalayas. Cho Oyu or the 'Mother Goddess of Turquoise" is the sixth highest mountain in the world. Marg's expedition traveled from Katmandu (1100m) into Tibet by vehicle to a trailhead at over 5000m and then to base camp by yak at 5700m. From there they made their way up the west ridge and northwest face. This will be a great show, hope you can attend. Admission is free. Non-members are welcome. The meeting and slide show will start at 7 PM in the basement of the Jasper Yellowhead Museum.
The section meets every Tuesday and Thursday evening from 6:30 to 8:00 at the climbing wall in Mountain View school in Hinton. Members and nonmembers are welcome. For more information call Jon Anderson at 866-7664. Expect a trip to the pub after the session on Thursday nights - good time to catch up on last week's trips and plans for the weekend.
Here is some information on established climbing routes and some news about a few first ascents.
Jasper Rock Climbs: The long awaited new edition of Dave Robinson's Jasper Rock guidebook will be available next spring. In the interim drop by Gravity Gear in Jasper and pick up a copy of Cyril Shokoples "Hidden Valley 1939 - 1999; A sixty year retrospective and climbers guide". As well as route descriptions for Hidden Valley climbs, it contains an excellent history of climbing in the valley. Also, for even more info on new (and old routes) be sure to look for "Jasper Rocks" on Cyril's web site at "www.compusmart.ab.ca/resqdyn". Cyril has included some excellent route descriptions including marked photos of some Jasper classics.
Improved Protection and Belays: Over the summer, folks like Dale Diduck, Harvey Struss, Cyril Shokoples, and Greg Horne donated their time and equipment improving the protection on local crags. You will find improved belays and protection on Roche Pedrix, Hidden Valley, Lost Boys, and Morro Canyon. Thanks guys; we all appreciate it. Over the summer the Jasper/Hinton Section supported these efforts with donations of over $800 to Dale, Cyril and Greg for bolts, hangers and chains.
Here are some notes from Harvey's Struss about his summer; some first ascents are included: Here I am, once again, looking out the window at the spectacular beauty of a fresh snow and thinking about rock climbing. After such an incredible year of weather for rock I find it hard to let go. Really I don't have plans of letting go. In two weeks, it's off the Zion for some long and airy, cold and scary sandstone. Before I go I'll let you go in on some of the adventure a few of the Jasper lads (more like old riffraff) have been up to.
On the north facing aspect of Throne Mountain you'll find some of the most fantastic crack climbing around. Kevin Christokos, Dale Diduck, and myself climbed some of the most incredible cracks around. These vary from three star 5.9 hand cracks, two star 5.7s and some scary 5.11a (have at her Kevin). This is up the Astoria River trail. There's no topos and not much fixed gear so bring a full rack including some pins and lots of tapes to rap.
On Dune wall, Kevin and I fixed up some of the stations and did a few new lines. This area has been given a raw deal when it comes to rock fall. Just wear a helmet and treat it like any other crag.
On the Alpine side here's a couple of what we believe to be new routes. On Fluted peak, Ken Wallator and myself climbed the East Ridge. This is an excellent trip; the rock is solid and the pro is solid. (Editors Note: Route description included later in newsletter)
Another one is on the north buttress of Roche Pedrix. This climb took me a couple of cracks to find the right start. On the second attempt, Brian Gibson and myself were ten pitches up when we were hit with a lightning and the rainstorm so we ran like (6 x 60m raps) hell. I returned with Kevin and finished it up for a twelve pitch. It's a 5.9+ route that finishes about thirty feet left of the Chimney Route. This year Shaune Varastan and I had bolted all the stations and placed rap hangers on them so it's one fast exit; one hour and you're back at the car. This new route was inspired from Willie Pfisterer so maybe if Willie sees this topo he might be able to say how much of it is his original line. (Editors Note: Topo included later in newsletter)
In the middle of the West face of Pedrix is a very large corner that bends to the right. I was always told that Grant Diduck had climbed this corner first. Greg Horne and I figured it was about time we gave it a shot. It's a six pitch sustained 5.8 corner that eats up your gear. Standard rockies rack and no topo necessary; back to the Chimney Route and rap away on the 30m raps.
One more note worthy ascent was in the Rampart's by Ken Wallator and Tom Coe. They made what was probably the second assent of the north face of Mount Turret. Ken told me after he finished this climb he could really understand what Fred Becky once said to him "Ken beware of the Ramparts. In the Ramparts getting up is definitely only half the battle".
Well now the winters here so hopefully the ice will form thick and the snow deep and remember always carry a third tool and keep your transceiver batteries fresh.
Jesus Murphy
February 1998 - Brian Gibson, Lori Snelgrove & Harvey Struss
Grade 2-3 Ice Climb
Drive to Ogre Canyon. Follow the trail to the railway tracks. Walk along the tracks; hike over the train tunnel and carry along until you come to the switching station in about 45 minutes. At the west end of the lake go through the trees for about 5 to 10 minutes. Climb undulating ice for approximately 100m. Follow the narrow canyon until you come to the first pitch. This is a very narrow and winding canyon and just an interesting place to be. On the first ascent there was no ice for the first rap just one knife blade to down climb off of.
East Ridge of Fluted Peak
August 9 1998 - Ken Wallator & Harvey Struss
Head over to the base of the northeast face from the first Geraldine Lake and camp at the base, lots of water and flat ground (four hours). The next day is full so start early. (Editors Note: Fluted peak is the unofficial name for the 2905m summit 1.5 kilometers east of the second Geraldine Lake.)
Pitch 1: Scramble up ridge to obvious first pitch. Climb corner and break left through blocks (5.7 55m).
Pitch 2: Short, easy, fifth class to prominent step.
Pitch 3: From ridge traverse approximately 50m to cracks and upper corner system.
Pitch 4: Climb cracks to prominent corner and follow for 10m to the ledge on the left (5.8 60m).
Pitch 5: Climb thin cracks left of corner breaking left to a ledge (5.9+ 35m).
Pitch 6: Climb over a bulge and head straight up to an awkward corner (5.8), then traverse right to crack system that takes you to a ledge (5.8 60m).
Pitch 7: At the base of the step traverse approximately 25m.
Pitch 8: Climb unobvious cracks and corners left of the large right facing corner. Take your time and find it. Break left to a ledge and corner (5.7*** 55m).
Pitch 9: Follow corner to roof go left and ramble up to short step (5.6 40m).
Pitch 10: Climb short mossy overhang (6m) and ramble up and belay (5.9 ?m).
Climb exposed fourth class terrain for approximately 150m to the summit. To descend go to the south col and go down scree and slabs to second Geraldine Lake. The rack should be a full rock rack up to a No. 4 Camalot. Don't forget your tricams and bring four pins for the odd belay.
North Buttress of Roche Pedrix
July 98 - Brian Gibson & Harvey Struss - 5.9 A1
July 98 - Kevin Christakos & Harvey Struss - 5.9+
Approach: Walk up ridge towards Chimney Route. Turn left into the woods just before tree line (flagging tape). Follow faint trail, descends slightly, to avoid cliffs. Continue on the sheep trail below face. Scramble up gully beside face to trees. Route starts where ground begins to flatten out. Small shrub 5m up the route is flagged. See the following Topo.
North Face - Mt Coleman
August 9 '98
Dave Pors, Yoshi Hayashi
I first saw the north face during the winter a few years ago while skiing to Mt Cirrus. Since then there were glimpses from the highway or distant views from adjacent peaks; finally early one morning last August Yoshi and I turned past the lake and onto the glacier to get our first close up look at the face.
"Lots of cracks and look at that 'shrund; it runs clear across the face. The only break might be on the right." An hour and a half later we climbed the right hand ramp and found ourselves looking at an overhanging ice wall on the other side of a large bergshrund.
"So much for an easy route to the top". With no obvious weakness, Yoshi decided to tackle it head on. After a careful crossing of the 'shrund the ice tools were out but the soft overhanging ice proved too much. Next it was my turn to try a left hand traverse through a weakness in the wall; some ackward mining and a couple of steep moves gets us clear. Three pitches of 45-degree ice brought us to the top of the north peak. Three hundred feet of fourth class brought us to the top. (Dave Pors)
(photo of Yoshi on the North Face Mt. Coleman)
Edith Cavell
August 23 '98
Dave Pors, Al Dalziel, Jon Anderson, Yoshi Hayashi
On Sunday, 23 August, Dave, Yoshi Hayashi, Jon Anderson, and I, set out to climb the East Ridge of Mount Edith Cavell. At 5:30am we left the parking lot and hiked below the imposing North Face for two hours before reaching the col. By then the suns rays were striking the upper part of the mountain. Another two hours of scrambling up steep scree and rock took us too the shoulder at 9500'. We roped up, Dave and Yoshi led off and when they had cleared the first pitch. Jon and I started to climb on the excellent rock. The left side of the ridge was thick cloud, but the right side was clear, and gave great views down the North Face. After about 1550' of mixed climbing and short roping we reached the 11,033' summit at 3:00 PM. Dave and Yoshi had already been there for 1 1/2 hours, soaking up the rays. We spent an hour on top, eating lunch and taking photos before heading down the west ridge and the long descent. After two hours on steep scree, we reached the trail, following it for an hour to reach the Tonquin valley trail and another 1 1/4 hour hike took us back to the parking lot. An excellent day. (Alan Dalziel)
CR 5A
September 9 '98
Alan Dalziel, Cliff Nietvelt, Terri Hunter, Yoshi Hayashi, Amy Blerot
"We'll have a lot of sunshine on the summit," Alan said before we pushed off from 6th bridge parking lot at 6:00 a.m. The weather that morning wasn't pretty; overcast and drizzle. I was skeptic of Alan's optimism so early in the morning however we were all keen to go climbing, so we hoped for the best. After 45 minutes or so following a muddy trail with our head lamps, we arrived at the narrow canyon that led to CR 5A. We were fortunate enough to see a mountain goat on top of the hoodoos on the left side of the canyon. The canyon itself is very narrow with many large boulders that had to be negotiated on the way up, though the semi-technical scrambling was a lot of fun.
We finally made it up the canyon, where we came to a large rock washout. The trail to the base of CR 5A is to the left through a thick forest. The hike is fairly steep, and somewhat physically demanding. However, all of this work had paid off just as Alan had predicted, the sky had cleared, and we were rewarded with excellent views of the Athabasca Valley (though we were still a long way from the summit).
After some steep hiking, we made it above tree line and got our first clear view of CR 5A. It is an impressive looking slab, with a mosaic of cracks and conifer trees. After having lunch, relaxing, and enjoying the views, we decided that it would be best to leave our packs at the base and climb light. Since there was five of us, Alan decided that it would be best that he would lead, and then belay Terri and Amy from above. Yoshi or I would then lead on a separate rope, and clip into the protection that Alan had left in. This system worked very efficiently, especially for a party of five climbers.
The climb itself was easy, where we followed a series of large cracks up the slab. However, since the slab face is so large, many routes could be taken, such as routes with very think holds, where sticky shoes would come in handy. After two pitches, we made it to the south ridge, from which we would proceed to reach the summit. Though there is some exposure on the south face, the ridge traverse is very straight-forward. Two pitches later we summitted and yes it was sunny on the summit. The weather was perfect, and we all enjoyed the spectacular views that were offered at the top.
After signing the summit register, we followed the same route on the ridge that we had just climbed. We down climbed the ridge to the first belay station, and rappelled twice down the slab. After a uneventful hike down (though we saw some fresh bear scat), we all were very satisfied with the climb.
The consensus was that CR 5A is a nice relatively non-technical route, with an easy summit, that can be comfortably done in a day. However, the day was a long one indeed. We go back to our vehicles at approximately 8:30 p.m., which translates into a 14 1/2 hour day. We recommend that this route should be done when the days are long enough so you won't have to rely on your head lamp or bivi sac! (Cliff Nietvelt)
Peveril Peak
Sept 15 '98
Al Dalziel, Jon Anderson, Yoshi Hayashi, Daryl King, Chuck Lummer
After the usual "way too early for a day off"
start, we met at the portal creek trail head at 6:00 AM but as we focused
our bleary eyes up the trail by head lamp, the extra large Tim Horton's
began to kick in and we began to feel better about being out of bed. By
the time we hit Circus Creek the sun was hitting the summit of Peveril directly
ahead of us and we could tell it was going to be a great day.
Arriving at the base of the rock, we donned helmets and did some excellent scrambling up solid quartzite slabs and blocks; big edges, big cracks, fun stuff. Above that we roped up and protected a couple of easy pitches and then short roped up to a prominent shoulder. Al had volunteered to climb with Yoshi while I brought up Daryl and Chuck, so they spent most of the day waiting for our group of three (Hey, that's what you get!) but it was a great group leading experience for me as it was Daryl's first peak and I had never climbed with Chuck before. Everyone did great as we made our way up from the shoulder, climbing three pitches of good rock and then short roping another shoulder. Daryl got in the action here leading a couple of pitches and a bit higher up Chuck made his first lead! Good job guys!
(photo of Al on Peveril.)
After spending an hour negotiating a steep, loose, exposed pitch (that we later realized we could have scrambled around in about 10 minutes) we climbed the final pitch to the summit.
We basked briefly in the warm sun for a snack, photos, etc. and then made a quick easy descent down the gullies and scree slopes to the southeast. From there it was the usual beeline to the Astoria to get the cholesterol levels back up with the giant mushroom burger! Yet another perfect day. We had some good ones this summer!
Thanks guys! (Jon Anderson)
Garonne Canyon
October 1 '98
Greg Horne, Yoshi Hayashi, Alan Dalziel, Steve Page (a visitor from Australia)
"What are you doing tomorrow?" asked Greg. "Nothing special," I lied, I was supposed to be working, but that could be changed "Why, what do you have in mind?" That was how the conversation started on the drive home after a trip down the Palisade Canyon. (Canyoneering is fun, you get into the canyon at the top and follow it to the bottom. rappelling steep sections and waterfalls on the way.) Early the next morning, Greg, Yoshi Hayashi, Steve page, a visitor from Australia, and I, canoed across the Athabasca river and hiked towards Mt. Colin. After 2 hours we reached a point on the trail where we could access the creek and from the amount of water we knew that we would be getting wet at some point. We followed the creek to the first waterfall, a 25' rappel down slippery, undercut rock. Further down the canyon we found a 40' cave, Which we explored, and another 15' dry rappel down overhanging rock. A short walk, another small cave and then a down climb took us to the lip of the canyon. We set up a belay and Greg took a look over the edge. he could see a ledge about 100' below, and lowered a single 9mm rope to see where it came to. it just passed the ledge. Greg came back up and we talked about whether to try it or not. We chose to go, I rappelled first, on a single rope but being belayed on a safety line. I went down about 20' on steep rock and stood on the lip of the canyon. It was awesome. For more than 200' below me there was nothing but air. The rock was cut away at such an angle that I would be 20' away from it for most of the descent. I eased myself over the edge and began my long descent. Once I was free of the rock, I started to slowly spin around, getting multiple panoramic views of the entire valley.
(photo of Rappelling in the canyon)
I must have spun around a dozen times, it was both scary and exhilarating. I eventually reached the ledge, it was further in than I had expected. I was still hanging out about 100' above the valley floor with 30' of rope left. I touched the edge of the rock with my foot, the ledge was very unstable, chunks of rock went crashing below. I tried to grab a large rock, but it too went screaming down. I jammed my fingers into a crack and pulled myself onto the ledge. It was a gross place to be. The ledge sloped away from the overhanging wall at a 10 degree angle and sloped downward along the face at 45 degrees, everything was loose and wet, every movement sent more rocks to the bottom. I managed to drive into a couple of pitons and secured myself. A gust of wind sent the full torrent of the waterfall in my direction and I got soaked. Well, I was down, I was cold and I was wet, but secure, it was time to start enjoying myself watching the others come down. Yoshi came next, he looked spectacular coming over the lip, 100' above and 20' out, with the waterfall in the background. He descended slowly and was glad to get to the belay. Next was Steve, who had only learned to rappel the day before, I think he held his breath the whole way down. Greg rerigged the ropes and rappelled down to us. The next rappel got us to the ground and safety. As we coiled the ropes, we kept looking at the cliff above, each with his own thoughts on what we had just done. For me it ranks as one of the highlights of all the time I've spent in the mountains. We walked down the canyon some more, then a 30' rappel into thigh deep water. At the next set of falls, Steve and I down climbed on a log, Yoshi and Greg rappelled from a tree. Below, at a small triple fall we rappelled off some boulders. Again an overhanging rap off a rock horn followed by a 15' rap into waist deep water. By the time we reached the mouth of the canyon we had slid and down climbed many more short waterfalls. The total trip took eight hours from top of the canyon and about 1550' of descent. We believe this to be the first descent of the canyon, we found no signs of any rap slings or pitons, and the cave entrance was undisturbed. We ended the day by crossing the river in darkness. A very memorable day. (Alan Dalziel)
Section Executive
For more information on the section contact anyone on the list below.
President Peter Amann Jasper 852-3237
Section Representative Brian Gibson Folding Mountain 866-2232
Secretary/Treasurer Dave Pors Hinton 865-8808
Membership Coordinator Colleen Popil Jasper 852-7008
Sport Climbing Coordinator Jon Anderson Hinton 865-7664
Newsletter Editor Greg Horne Folding Mountain 866-2204
Trips Coordinator Al Dalziel Folding Mountain 866-2240
Webmaster: Cyril Shokoples
Remember that Gravity Gear gives a 5% discount to all ACC members!
Located at 611b Patricia Street (in the basement).
Call 852-3155 (local) or 1-888-852-3155 (long distance) for a free catalogue.
Open 9 AM to 6 PM seven days a week
Submissions to Newsletter Welcome
The editor welcomes submissions from section members and other readers. Information about new routes completed in the area will be most appreciated; route sketches or marked photos suitable for black and white photocopying would be a bonus. Members can advertise outdoor gear for sale.
Alpine Club of Canada - Jasper/Hinton Section
1998/99 Winter Trips Schedule
We have a full schedule of winter trips; everything from ice climbs, to ski tours and winter mountaineering. These trips are filled on a first to call first in basis. Please contact the trip leader a maximum of two weeks and a minimum of one week prior to the trip. All trips are lead by volunteers. Please ask the leader about the trip difficulty and equipment required so you and the rest of the group are not disappointed. The exact date of the trip may change due to a leader's commitments. For liability protection each participant must sign a waiver.
For climbs each participant is expected to bring a helmet, harness, two prusiks and two locking carabiners. On ski trips alpine or tele gear are welcome. When going into avalanche terrain participants are required to have a transceiver and shovel. Some section equipment is available on loan for club outings.
Nov 28 Beginners Ski Touring - Bald Hills
Dave Pors (865-8808)
An introduction to ski touring and a chance to get those summer muscles ready for winter.
Dec 5 Ice Climbing Intro and Refresher
Greg Horne (866-2204)
This is always a popular early season event. Designed for people with some previous basic rock climbing skills (belaying and knots, etc.) or ice climbers who want to get back into it. There will be limited technical equipment available on a first call first serve basis.
Dec 9 Intermediate Ice Climb - Maligne Canyon
Al Dalziel (866-2240)
Top rope climbing on several of the different ice formations in the canyon.
Dec 13 Ski Mountaineering - Mt Wilcox
Dave Pors (865-8808)
This prominent viewpoint at the Columbia Ice Fields will be a spectacular winter objective. Ski tour to the base then scramble/short rope to the summit.
Dec 19 Ice Climb - Whitehorse Creek Seeps
Brian Gibson (866-2232)
A beginner to intermediate outing near the village of Cadomin.
Jan 1 Winter Mountaineering - Mt Brule
Dave Pors (865-8808)
Al Dalziel (866-2240)
The now traditional New Year's Day event, the location changes but the temperature remains low.
Jan 8 Intermediate Ski Tour - Lectern Meadows
Peter Amann (852-3237)
A tour for either tele or alpine gear; steep climb with gradual descent and lots of turns.
Jan 10 Strong Beginner Ski Tour - Little Shovel Pass
Greg Horne (866-2204)
Climb from Maligne Lake and return via Jeffrey Creek if conditions are good otherwise back via Evelyn Creek.
Jan 16 Beginners Ice Climb - Drambui Demon
Jon Anderson (865-7664)
A short walk through the woods to Hinton's local ice climb; grade 2 to 3.
Jan 20 Beginners Ice Climb - Tangle Falls
Al Dalziel (866-2240)
Lots of top rope problems and the chance to try lead climbing.
Jan 23 Intermediate Ice Climb - Kerkeslin Falls
Brian Gibson (866-2232)
The very popular classic grade 3 trip.
Feb 6 Intermediate Ski Tour - Mt Nelson Radio Repeater
Matt Reynolds (852-3237)
A tour near Beauty Creek on a Winston Churchill Range sub-peak with tree skiing descent.
Feb 6 & 7 Introductory Avalanche Course
Peter Amann (852-3237)
A one day in the classroom and a second day in the field. Tele, alpine or snowboard transport required for the second day. Jasper/Hinton section members $60, all others $75. Registration deadline is January 30th.
Feb 10 Intermediate/Advance Ice Climb - Weeping Wall
Mike Senchuk (852-3723)
Excellent area with grade 4 to 5+ routes.
Feb 20 & 21 Ice Climbing Weekend - David Thomson/Kootenay Plains
Peter Amann (852-3237)
A range of routes from grade 2 to 4 are normally available. Camping or Nordegg Hostel depending on temperatures.
Feb 27 Intermediate Ice Climb - Shades of Beauty
Dave Pors (865-8808)
A few pitches of Grade 4 climbing.
Mar 6 Ice Climb - Location TBA
Sylan Aubin (852-2135)
Grade 3 to 4 ice climb; details later.
Mar 13 Intermediate Ski Tour - Phoenix Peak
Dave Pors (865-8808)
A peak at the headwaters of Jeffrey Peak (Snowbowl area of the Skyline). If the snow is good there will be lots of turns with a quick run back to the highway.
Mar 17 Intermediate Ice Climb - Melt Out
Brian Gibson (866-2232)
A fat, well formed grade 3 climb that will be soaking up the afternoon sun.
Mar 26 Intermediate Ski Mountaineering - Indian Ridge
Peter Amann (852-3237)
A ski ascent up Whistler Creek to the base of the east ridge. Climb to the summit with a ski a descent down the other side.
Apr 17 Intermediate Ski Mountaineering - Mt Wilson
Dave Pors (865-8808)
Once again we will try to climb the peak. A steep climb up a couloir, then a gradual glacier ski to the top. Expect some turns all the way back to the car.
Apr 20 Spring Rock Climb - Morro Peak
Al Dalziel (866-2240)
Perhaps the first rock route of the year followed by a trip through Morro Canyon.
Apr 23 & 24 Overnight Ski Tour & Mountaineering - Majestic Peak
Peter Amann (852-3237)
The often listed but never reached late objective of the section. Don't miss the chance to participate on this limited edition excursion into the Tonquin Valley.