 |
|
|
| THE SILVER ICE AXE |
The following are excerpts from the October 1996 newsletter.
Members have been asking if the newsletter editor died or just skipped town with the section's huge bank account. Sorry, nothing as exotic as either of the above. This really is the next Silver Ice Axe since the May 1996 issue. Unfortunately, there are only 24 hours in a day, and I need more.
Results of the May 10 election for the section executive are as follows;
As usual there were line ups at the polling booths, members complaining about not enough ballots and too many candidates to choose from. There has even been concerns expressed about Folding Mtn. having a monopoly on the executive.
Summer Trips Report
Al Dalziel went wild with trip organizing this past summer and our level of participation was at an all time high. This certainly shows the potential interest by section members with a bit of prodding.
| Date | Trip | Number of People |
| May 10 | Mt. Esplanade | 7 |
| June 12 | Cougar Rock | 3 |
| June 16 | Mt. Shuey rock | 6 |
| June 19 | Mt. Shuey's summit | 3 |
| June 22 | Mt. Kain | 3 |
| June 26 | Leyland Mtn. | 4 |
| July 3 | Roche Miette | 5 |
| July 10 | Roche Perdrix | 5 |
| July 17 | Mt. Morro | 9 |
| July 20 | Cinquefoil Ridge | 10 |
| July 23 | Kids rock climb | 9 |
| July 24 | Ogre Canyon rock | 6 |
| July 25 | Mt. Wilcox | 5 |
| July 27-28 | Mt. Colin & area | 9 |
| July 31 | The Whistlers hike | 6 |
| August 7 | Mt. Hawk | 6 |
| August 14 | Mt. Shuey | 4 |
| August 17 | Mt. Brule | 5 |
Foreign Fragrance ??
On a bright mid-June morning, while we waited for the rest of our party to show up at Poco Restaurant, trip leader Harvey Struss and myself chowed down to a high fiber, low cal (ha!) breakfast of champions. Next to arrive was Mathias Hodel of the Swiss Alpine Club, and newest member of our section. Then strolled in Lorrie Lech and Sylvie Majeau, bringing news that our second leader, Lisa Paulson had slept through six alarms, was just leaving home and would meet us at our intended target, Mt. Shuey.
After a fairly typical drive up the road to the empty Miette Hotsprings parking lot, we took our time gearing up. Our missing leader also had Harvey's rack, including a few essentials he felt might be required! With no doubt that he would have some fun that day, we set off on our big ascent up the Sulphur Skyline trail. It was tough navigating along the paved trail, but we did happen to find our turn off point marked by a inconspicuous cairn that looked striking like a park bench.
When reaching the base of our selected routes, we were relieved to see Lisa practically running up the slopes below us. A testament to the practice of some folks who believe in getting a few extra moments of sleep, instead of an early start. Our climbs were up two semi-vertical cracks running parallel up an otherwise smooth slab on the SW face of Mt. Shuey. Dividing into two teams, Lisa lead Lorrie and Sylvie up the 5.6 route and Harvey took Mathias and myself up Foreign Fragrance (5.8).
Harvey and Lisa did a marvelous job of demonstrating proper placement of pro and countless other tips. Lisa would entertain us with her litany of humorous male bashing jokes while Harvey would start singing tunes that must have been buried deep deep in his mind. Before ascending to Harvey's hanging belay station, Mathias decided to make the climb in his mountaineering boots! Apparently, to be a guide in Switzerland, one must be able to climb 5.10 in big boots. As Mathias aspired to become a certified guide in his homeland, he had no problem following Harvey's lead.
When I reached the already crowded station, I am assaulted by the odor of Harvey's climbing shoes which he had slipped off to relieve his aching toes. I immediately questioned Harvey why he named this route Foreign Fragrance, then skeptically dismissed his story that on the first ascent of this route he was dogged by occasional whiffs of perfume. I clip in, Harvey leads off on the last pitch with Mathias as belay slave.
While hanging at the station I gazed down at mother black bear and two cubs foraging, alarmingly close to our exit route in the valley below. I took time to notice what a beautiful day it turned out to be, clear sky, warm sun and panoramic view. The hot springs tempted us, everyone talked of how great it would be to go for a dip. As my first ever club trip, I was unsure of what to expect, but am very happy of how everything turned out. During the walk down, everyone shared the feeling of having experienced a classic day.
Cameron Toner
Fairy Meadows Hut Ski Trip
The idea was brought up at the October 18 executive meeting of organizing a week long section ski trip to Fairy Meadows for March 1998. The hut is so popular that such a trip must be booked that far in advance. Stay tuned for more details as the logistics are worked out.
Ski Leadership Courses
Two ski leadership courses are planned for the near future. The Banff section is having a course from Friday evening December 6 through Sunday December 8. The Edmonton section also is planning a course for January 18 and 19. Anyone aspiring to lead section winter trips should contact Cyril Shokoples or Peter Amann if interested in attending one of these courses.
Hinton Climbing Wall
The winter schedule for the wall is Tuesday and Thursday evenings from 6 to 8 PM at the Mountain View School on McLeod Avenue. There is a one dollar per evening user fee. The wall is only open to members due to liability reasons. Only shoes are required as the wall is presently just bouldering. Contact Dave Pors or Mark Pearson for more details.
Ski Swaps
Looking for bargains (maybe) or to unload some unused equipment? Both Jasper and Hinton have swaps coming up.
Jasper - Sawridge Hotel - November 9th
Section Meeting and Slide Show
Our next meeting will be November 19, 6:30 PM, at the Jasper Activity Centre. Bring some snack/finger food and your rock shoes if you want. Greg Horne will give a slide show, Bolivia - Tibet of the Americas
The newsletter editor doesn't have time to write an article about his 6 week trip to Bolivia in March and April of 1996, so I'll give a slide show instead. I visited Bolivia first in 1983 for a month and now more recently this past spring. It is a country of extreme contrasts in geography, from ice capped peaks to lowland jungle. I'll show photos of a number of my trips in this country, including a hike from snowy passes down to banana and coffee plantations - a 3000m meter descent in three days, caving with vampires, along the shores of Lake Titicaca, the world's highest ski hill, climbing some great classic glaciated peaks of the Andes and a 60km/h truck crash into a load of gravel on the highway.
Bolivian water will be offered (at no cost) to those who want a full body (or out of body very fast) experience. Inca two step dance moves will demonstrated, not to be confused with Montezuma's revenge.
Winter 1997 Trip Schedule
First, the usual introduction, for liability reasons all participants must be paid up members of the Alpine Club of Canada, no exceptions. You can be from any section. One must sign a waiver and show valid membership card before the trip starts. Please contact the trip leader a maximum of two weeks in advance and a minimum of one week before the trip. All trips are lead by volunteers. The exact date of a trip may change due to a leader's commitments.
December 15 - Introductory Ice Climbing (Dave Pors 865-8808)
An always popular taste or refresher to waterfall ice climbing. This is
suitable for those without previous ice climbing experience but have
basic rock climbing skills such as belaying and knot tying. Necessary
equipment is supplied on a first sign up first serve basis. Additional
leaders are always needed for this outing, don't be shy.
January 1 - First peak of the Year (Al Dalziel 866-2240)
This will be a scramble up a lower Front Range peak to be determined as the conditions and weather dictate.
January 11 - Ski Tour - Bald Hills (Dave Pors 865-8808)
A beginner telemark outing, some basic previous experience is required.
January 18 - Ice Climb - Melt Out (Harvey Struss 866-2114)
An intermediate multi-pitch climb near the Columbia Icefields.
January 25 - Ski/Scramble - Mt. Luscar (Greg Horne 866-2204)
A winter mountaineering objective in the windy front ranges.
February 7 - Ski Tour - Lectern Meadows (Peter Amann
852-3237)
An intermediate tour on either telemark or alpine gear up Portal Creek.
February 16 - Ice Climb - Location TBA (Harvey Struss 866-2114)
February 22 - Ski Tour - Mt. McQuire (Dave Pors 865-8808)
An intermediate to advanced ski tour to the summit and tree skiing on the way down, telemark or alpine gear.
Trips for late winter and early spring will follow in the next newsletter in the new year. Anyone interested in setting up other mid-week trips contact Alan Dalziel at 866-2240.
Next Executive Meeting
The next executive meeting will be held January 7th. If section members have any ideas or concerns to bring up, please contact an executive member so it may be discussed at the meeting.
More New Route Articles on the WEB
The following three articles have been added to the New Routes page courtesy of Greg Horne. They were previously published in the Canadian Alpine Journal.
Mt. Robson - Approach to Kain Face via Hut Route, the Patterson/Wilson Spur
Caledonia Mountain - East Ridge
Mt. Kerkeslin Ghost Falls - 175 m, III, WI 4
Plastic Climbing Boots For Sale - Size 9 - 9 1/2
The editor has an excellent pair of Koflach Ultra S boots for sale. The boots are a half size too small and only used about a dozen times. They were the second from the top of the line boot when purchased. They have a wool lining, a great feature too expensive to include these days. Priced at $225.00 to move. Contact Greg Horne (866-2204) to arrange to see and or try for the day.
Any members with gear to advertise for sale in the next Silver Ice Axe can contact the newsletter editor with the details.
Last updated November 25, 1996