Celebrating Conrad Kain (1883-1934)

–A Mountain Guide of Rare Spirit

Photo courtesy of the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies v263-na-0405

2009 is a very special year for the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC). Along with The Conrad Kain Centennial Society and Parks Canada, we are celebrating the arrival of Conrad Kain (1883-1934) to Canada. More than anything, we are very proud of and continue to be inspired by the values of a remarkable mountain man.

In 1909, Kain journeyed to Canada where he found work in the Canadian Rockies as the very first guide of ACC). He guided and surveyed in the summertime, often with surveyor and then president of the ACC, A.O. Wheeler, and spent time trapping and fur farming in the winter. His accomplishments in the mountains are almost incomparable. Over the next twenty years, he had more than fifty first ascents and, most notably, was the first climber to complete the ascents of the three largest peaks in the Canadian Rockies: Mount Robson, Mount Columbia and the North Twin.

Conrad Kain, born in the village of Nasswald, Austria, developed his interest in mountain climbing as a young man. Growing up with the Alps, Kain began leading tourists on adventuresome outings in these mountains and trained himself as a reputable guide. His efforts culminated when he was issued his summit logbook, or führerbuch, in 1906 and was officially acknowledged as a professional guide by the German and Austrian Alpine Club.

Though standing only five feet five inches, Kain was a charming and patient man, who garnered respect for his knowledge through quiet authority. An entertainer and excellent cook at the camp fire, Kain also out-performed on the trail, carrying large packs, displaying good judgment, and a unique ability with route-finding. In 1916, at the peak of his guiding career, among many other summits, Kain most notably led first ascents of the Bugaboo Spire and Mount Louis.

No doubt one of Canada’s most accomplished mountaineers, Kain’s headstone reads “a mountain guide of rare spirit.”

To celebrate 100 years since Conrad Kain arrived in Canada, the ACC will be commemorating this occasion with the following activities:

• In the Footsteps of Conrad Kain adventure camp as part of the ACC’s Mountain Adventures Program.

• As Far As I Can Take You: The Life of Conrad Kain - a one-man play presented by Parks Canada's theatre troupe, Mountain WIT. Inspired by Kain’s own words, the play traces his journey from humble beginnings in the Austrian Alps through his most famous triumph in the Canadian Rockies: the summit of Mount Robson.

• Participation in the unveiling of a Commemorative Cairn Wilmer B.C.

• The publishing of a Mountain Culture Summit Series booklet on Kain.

For more information, contact…