Safety Articles and Information

 

 
Recall and Safety Notices
Ropes and Slings
Retiring Gear - Guidelines
Accidents
Harnesses
UIAA Safety Commission Information
Avalanche Shoveing Strategies
Helmets
Belay & Rappel - Methods and Equipment
Helicopters
Equipment TLC
Mountaineering Equipment Acronyms Explained
Avalanche Transceiver Safety
Avalanche Safety Brochure (2 languages)
Helicopter Rescue Protocol


Recall and Safety Notices

Safety Bulletin - May 9, 2008: KONG CARABINER model: 0426

This is an oval carabiner. The packaging is a plastic bag attached to card on which the details of the manufacturer are printed.  Country of origin is Italy.  The product poses a risk of injuries because it does not withstand the static strength test which could lead to falls. The test was carried out on the major axis, and it was noted that the connectors break when the following forces are applied: force of the major axis with the gate open: 6.1 KN (required level: 7 KN); force of the major axis with the gate closed: 18.6 KN (required level: 22 KN).  Withdrawal from the market ordered by the authorities.  The full text of the notice is available at: http://ec.europa.eu:80/consumers/dyna/rapex/create_rapex.cfm?rx_id=182

 
 

The ACC's Safety Committee has received information about the recent failure of one Black Diamond Quick Draw 235 avalanche probe. A loop of wire inside the tubing rusted through causing the probe to come apart as it was being assembled for use. The retail outlet where the equipment was purchased, as well as the manufacturer, have both been notified and have responded. It appears that moisture inside the tubing as well as the materials used in the metal loop system could be the cause(s) of the problem. The manufacturer reports that only one probe of this type, made in winter 2002, has been returned and that they have no plans to issue a recall. Probes made since 2003 use different materials that should prevent the problem from developing. Users are advised to store the probe with the tip up to allow water to drain away. It is impossible to check the probe to make sure your probe isn't developing a similar problem; members are reminded that equipment generally doesn't last forever and that crucial pieces of safety gear should be replaced periodically. This picture will show what the problem looked like in the damaged probe.

 
 

Petzel America has issued a voluntary recall of Petzl M34 BL Am'D BALL-LOCK and M36 BL WILLIAM BALL-LOCK carabiners with the new metal locking sleeve due to the possibility that the sleeve can be unlocked without pressing the green button, so the locking system acts as a TWIST-LOCK, instead of a BALL-LOCK. Affected units were sold during March and July, 2006. No incidents or injuries have been reported. This information does not apply to the older nylon-sleeve locking system, but only to BALL-LOCK carabiners with the metal locking sleeve manufactured in March and July, 2006. This recall is in effect only in the USA - it does not affect BALL LOCK carabiners sold in other countries. For further information, visit Petzl's website.

 
 
Black Diamond has issued a voluntary recall of its Speed Buckle Harness, sold under names such as: Gym Speed, Focus Speed, Momentum Speed, Vario Speed and Wiz Kid. Leg or waist buckles may be threaded incorrectly and may loosen. This notice appeared on CBC's Marketplace website and also on Black Diamond's website.
 
 
May 2006 - A recall notice has been issued by Colorado Custom Hardware (CCH) for a specific type of "Alien Cam". Full information is available on the manufacturer's website at: www.aliencamsbycch.com/recall
 
 
 
 
 
Sept 2005 – Certain batteries can shift in the battery compartment of M1/M2 transceivers. Important information about this issue at the Ortovox website.
 
 
Dec 2004 - Avalanche Beacons Affected by Certain Types of Headlamps
 
 

Accidents

Alpine Accidents in Canada - An excellent online, indexed database of historical data and accident analysis, put together by ACC volunteers.

Avalanche Shoveling Strategies

Ever given much thought to how you would organize your shoveling teams during an avalanche rescue? There's a whole lot more to this than you'd think. With the kind permission of the Canadian Avalanche Association, we'd like to make available a recent article on just this topic. This is an excellent article and is highly recommended reading "before" you head out into mountain ski terrain. This article first appeared in the Spring issue (volume 80) of Avalanche.ca

Shoveling Techniques

 
 

The Canadian Avalanche Centre has developed the "Avaluator" trip planning tool. The tool is available to purchase in hard copy both the the CAA Store and any MEC store. The price is around $10.00. They also offer this service online at: www.avalanche.ca/avaluator/Default.aspx

This tool looks to be a decision making matrix that takes into consideration an expanded ATES rating area and the CAA current avalanche bulletin.

 
 
Also note that Telus Mobility has expanded cell coverage in the Rogers Pass area of Glacier National Park. While it is not advised to turn on a cell phone while in avalanche terrain, this information could be useful for emergency communications purposes.
 
 

Helicopters

Helicopter Safety (Adobe PDF)

Ropes and Slings

A system for managing your ropes, (PDF) especially useful for Sections with a number of ropes and a variety of rope users.

Handy record-keeping spreadsheet. (Excel)
Damage from stepping on your rope (Word Document)
Rope Crampon Test (JPG)

Wet and Icy Ropes May be Dangerous (Rich Text Format)
Wet and Icy Ropes - Tabular Test Results (Large JPG)

Marking of Ropes (Word Document)
A Summary of the Conference on Nylon and Ropes (Word Document)
Safety Safety Loss in Ropes from Top-Rope Lowering Cycles
(Word Document)

Harnesses

Harness Used For Climbing Ice and Walls - research results (Adobe PDF)

Helmets

Helmets1 - The BMC helmet testing program - part 1
Helmets2 - The BMC helmet testing program - part 2
Helmets - Off Centre Impacts
Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet - more discussion from the BMC

Retiring Gear - Guidelines

Under Development

Equipment TLC

Under Development

UIAA Safety Commission Information

June 2003 - Plenary Session Summary (Word Document)

Belay & Rappel - Methods and Equipment

May 2008 - Petzel has announced new lead belay techniques to be used with its Grigri.  All information, a video and posters are available on Petzel's website at: http://en.petzl.com:80/petzl/SportProduits?Produit=203.

A(nother) Rappel Anchor Problem article

Ice (aka V-Thread or Abalakov) Anchors - Important Reminders for Any Season (Word Document)
Notes from the UIAA Safety Commission Working Group on Belay Methods (Word Document)
Belay Techniques: a comparison of induced loads using classic and harness belays. (Word Document)

Avalanche Transceiver Safety

Your transceiver may not be working properly at maximum distance. Here are some simple checks every user should carry out on their beacon. Adobe PDF

Ever wonder how often you should change your avalanche transceiver battery? Read this article to find out: Battery life

Avalanche Safety Brochures

The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, The Canadian Avalanche Centre, Parks Canada, Kananaskis Country, and Alpine Club of Canada have teamed up this fall to offer some basic public education regarding early season avalanche conditions. It seems that there are close calls or accidents almost every year as we charge out of the gate early looking for ice or snow. Download the safety brochure in French or English.

Helicopter Rescue Protocol

The Rocky Mountain Outlook newspaper in Canmore, Alberta kindly allowed us to reprint Rob Alexander's article on helicopter rescue protocol. All backcountry users are encouraged to review this article and learn the proper rescue signals.