Helmut Microys


After immigrating from Austria to Canada in 1955, Helmut studied civil engineering at the University of Toronto, obtaining a PhD in 1972. He quickly became recognized for outstanding climbing and mountaineering abilities. Helmut was selected to lead the Mount Ontario climb during Canada’s 1967 centennial expedition to the Yukon. After several attempts, the team succeeded in a 40-hour epic.

During the 60s and 70s, Helmut and various partners put up no fewer than ~120 recorded first ascents along the Niagara Escarpment and at Bon Echo, many at an advanced climbing standard for the period. Helmut has climbed more than 700 summits, split roughly equally between the Canadian Rockies and the Alps. He has several Rockies first ascents to his credit, including the first recorded solo traverse of the principal peaks of the Sir Donald group in 1966.

Helmut served on both the UIAA Safety Commission as the Canadian representative and the ACC Safety Committee from 1974 to 2004, a period of 30 years – a remarkable contribution. For the early part of this period, he also represented the AAC and American mountaineering clubs. His credentials (skilled climber and mountaineer, PhD-level engineering background, fluency in German and knowledge of European culture) made him an ideal fit for these assignments.

Helmut contributed to research, testing, standards development and technical publications regarding climbing and mountaineering safety on a wide variety of topics. This included development of materiel and testing standards for climbing ropes, carabiners, helmets, ice screws, crampons, nuts and rock anchors. He took a particular interest in promotion of safe belay techniques as well as corrosion of fixed anchors in sea water environments. He published safety-related articles in the ACC Gazette, ACC Journal and AAC Journal. Beginning in 1981, Helmut also represented the ACC at many of the annual UIAA General Assembly meetings held around the globe, personally bearing much of the expense.

Helmut received the ACC Distinguished Service Award in 1990, recognizing his contributions to climbing safety at both the national and section levels. He was made an Honorary Member of the ACC in 2021 in recognition of his extraordinary life time contributions to Canadian mountaineering.