Splitter granite cracks are the name of the game in Lofoten
Photo Credit: Charlie Long
Located above the Arctic Circle, Lofoten and Tysfjord are a climber’s paradise. Join the ACC in the summer of 2018 to climb in the midnight sun, and find out why northern Norway has attracted international mountaineers for over a hundred years. Spend 5 nights among the white sand beaches, crystal clear fjords and jagged peaks of Lofoten; then pack up and move your base camp for 4 nights in Tysfjord, home of Norway’s iconic mountain Stetind.
Despite the distances separating Norway’s northern communities from its major cities, the harsh weather and 24-hour darkness in winter, Norwegians have created flourishing communities above the Arctic Circle. The fishing industry, resource development, and tourism have brought a thriving economy to the area. A connection with the culture and heritage of Norway is apparent from the many local shops and galleries featuring art and folk crafts. While you recover from your flight and travel to Lofoten, you’ll have a chance to take in the culture and history with a visit to WWII, Viking or fishing museums.
View from Fløya, Svolvær
Photo: Kristin Folsland Olsen
The rocky island archipelago that makes up Lofoten juxtaposes sheer granite peaks against the deep blue fjords of the Norwegian Sea. While the mountains aren’t high by Canadian Rockies or European Alps standards (the highest peak reaches only 1161m), the dramatic cliffs, granite walls, and green hills rise straight from the Atlantic Ocean. In summer, the area has 24-hour daylight. There are a variety of climbs on offer in Lofoten: short, single-pitch rock climbs; 2-4 pitch multipitch climbs; alpine ridge routes; difficult alpine walls; and long multipitch climbs. While you could spend a season (or a lifetime) exploring the rock in this area, our five-day tour will hit the classics, shake off the jet lag, immerse you in the spectacular vistas of the Lofoten archipelago and get you warmed up for the attempt on Stetind.
Stetind and Tysfjord
The breathtaking surroundings, spectacular vistas and clean-cut rock features leave no doubt that Stetind deserves its status as Norway’s national mountain. For a dedicated climber, Tysfjord holds incredible potential. Canadian climbers will be reminded of the Bugaboos’ granite spires. The mountain was an icon in northern Norwegian mountaineering even before the first successful ascent in 1910, and has enthralled some of Norway’s most influential climbers. The first ascensionists were a team of Norwegian alpinists: A.B. Bryn, F. Schjeldrup and C.W. Rubenson. The mountain had previously stymied leading European alpinists of the day, including the English climbing pioneer William Cecil Slingsby. He famously dubbed Stetind, “The ugliest mountain I ever saw” after an unsuccessful attempt in 1904. Generations of later climbers would disagree. In the 1930s, it was the site of cutting-edge technical climbing, and the first winter ascent of the mountain was made in 1963. It continues to attract Norwegians and visitors from around the world.
Climbing on the West Wall of Stetind, Tysfjord
Photo: Vegard With Stennes
During your stay in Tysfjord, you’ll attempt an ascent of Stetind and explore some of the nearby climbing destinations. The granite walls of Eidetind and the ridge on the Kugelhornet are spectacular climbing destinations in their own right.