Northern Norway: Climbing in the Midnight Sun 2018

Northern Norway

Splitter granite cracks are the name of the game in Lofoten
Photo Credit: Charlie Long

Located above the Arctic Circle, Lofoten and Tysfjord are a climber’s paradise. Join the ACC in the summer of 2018 to climb in the midnight sun, and find out why northern Norway has attracted international mountaineers for over a hundred years. Spend 5 nights among the white sand beaches, crystal clear fjords and jagged peaks of Lofoten; then pack up and move your base camp for 4 nights in Tysfjord, home of Norway’s iconic mountain Stetind.

Despite the distances separating Norway’s northern communities from its major cities, the harsh weather and 24-hour darkness in winter, Norwegians have created flourishing communities above the Arctic Circle. The fishing industry, resource development, and tourism have brought a thriving economy to the area. A connection with the culture and heritage of Norway is apparent from the many local shops and galleries featuring art and folk crafts. While you recover from your flight and travel to Lofoten, you’ll have a chance to take in the culture and history with a visit to WWII, Viking or fishing museums.

View from Fløya, Svolvær
Photo: Kristin Folsland Olsen

Lofoten

The rocky island archipelago that makes up Lofoten juxtaposes sheer granite peaks against the deep blue fjords of the Norwegian Sea. While the mountains aren’t high by Canadian Rockies or European Alps standards (the highest peak reaches only 1161m), the dramatic cliffs, granite walls, and green hills rise straight from the Atlantic Ocean. In summer, the area has 24-hour daylight. There are a variety of climbs on offer in Lofoten: short, single-pitch rock climbs; 2-4 pitch multipitch climbs; alpine ridge routes; difficult alpine walls; and long multipitch climbs. While you could spend a season (or a lifetime) exploring the rock in this area, our five-day tour will hit the classics, shake off the jet lag, immerse you in the spectacular vistas of the Lofoten archipelago and get you warmed up for the attempt on Stetind.

Stetind and Tysfjord

The breathtaking surroundings, spectacular vistas and clean-cut rock features leave no doubt that Stetind deserves its status as Norway’s national mountain. For a dedicated climber, Tysfjord holds incredible potential. Canadian climbers will be reminded of the Bugaboos’ granite spires. The mountain was an icon in northern Norwegian mountaineering even before the first successful ascent in 1910, and has enthralled some of Norway’s most influential climbers. The first ascensionists were a team of Norwegian alpinists: A.B. Bryn, F. Schjeldrup and C.W. Rubenson. The mountain had previously stymied leading European alpinists of the day, including the English climbing pioneer William Cecil Slingsby. He famously dubbed Stetind, “The ugliest mountain I ever saw” after an unsuccessful attempt in 1904. Generations of later climbers would disagree. In the 1930s, it was the site of cutting-edge technical climbing, and the first winter ascent of the mountain was made in 1963. It continues to attract Norwegians and visitors from around the world.

Climbing on the West Wall of Stetind, Tysfjord
Photo: Vegard With Stennes

During your stay in Tysfjord, you’ll attempt an ascent of Stetind and explore some of the nearby climbing destinations. The granite walls of Eidetind and the ridge on the Kugelhornet are spectacular climbing destinations in their own right.

Level of Difficulty: Moderate

This trip is moderate in difficulty. It’s recommended that you have some basic rock climbing and rope handling experience and a good level of fitness. We will be on the trip for 12 days, and will climb for up to 9 of those days. The days in Lofoten and Stetind area can include steep rock and grass ascents. There may be some snow travel in sections. Fatigue will be the biggest factor that we need to deal with. The itinerary will ensure we have enough stops and day trips along the way to help, but sleep is an important factor where the sun does not go down. Daypacks will be appropriately light depending on the activity.

Details

  •  July 4-14, 2018
  • $6,995 + Tax */ Person
Register Now Info Pack (Coming soon)

*Trip price is based on a group of 6 people, in case of low registration numbers, a small group supplement of $500 will apply; this allows us to cover the cost of lower guiding ratios (2:1 rather than 3:1)

Camp Itinerary

  • July 4 –Travel from Canada to Evenes Airport, northern Norway; overnight in Narvik
  • July 5– Travel from Narvik to Lofoten. Opportunity to explore cultural highlights including the World War Two museum, Viking museum and local fishing industry
  • July 6– Rock climbing in the Magic Islands (first day easing into the area); scrambling and hiking options also available
  • July 7– Multipitch rock climbing options of difficulty 5.5 and up; scrambling and hiking options also available
  • July 8– Ridge day – scramble and hike a skyline in Lofoten
  • July 9 – Svolværgeita or Djevelporten-Fløya in the morning and travel to Tysfjord in the afternoon
  • July 10– Stetind (Norway’s national mountain)
  • July 11– Multipitch rock climbing on Eidetind in Eifjord
  • July 12– Kuglhornet multipitch rock climb in Eifjord
  • July 13– Hamarøyskaftet multipitch rock climb in Hamarøy and travel back to Narvik
  • July 14– Travel from Narvik to Evenes airport and onward to final destinations
This itinerary is subject to change due to weather, travel conditions and other factors.

Gear, Food & Lodging

INCLUDED
  • Breakfast, lunch and dinner In Lofoten and Tysfjord
  • Guiding and camp manager
  • Accommodation for duration of camp
  • Transportation from and to airport
  • All transportation in northern Norway, including ferries
  • Ropes and group gear
PARTICIPANTS MUST PROVIDE
  • Extended accommodation before or after the trip
  • Meals in Narvik on inbound and outbound travel days
  • Personal gear (see info pack)
  • Flights to Evenes Airport (EVE)

Northern Norway  Staff

Frank Spears (Camp manager)

Frank comes from Northern British Columbia, an area which enjoys easy access to Jasper and the Rocky Mountains, where he regularly pursues summer and winter activities. As an active ACC member he has been a regular at the General Mountaineering Camp as camp co-ordinator and trip leader. Frank has climbed in North America and Europe. He volunteers with the ACC and has served the Prince George Section in various Executive positions. Frank is currently the Vice President for Activities on the National Board of Directors. A perfect year for Frank involves snow adventures in all twelve months of the year.

Charlie Long

Charlie is an experienced climber. He grew up climbing in the southern Coast Mountains of BC and around Squamish. Charlie has climbed in the mountains of Canada, USA, Mexico, Norway, New Zealand, Spain, and the United Kingdom. Charlie first visited Northern Norway in 2014 with the help of MEC’s expedition support fund and climbed a number of new routes on that trip and over the following 4 summers in northern Norway. Charlie is an ACMG Rock Guide and lives in Tromsø, northern Norway with his wife and dog.

Andrew Rennie

Andrew is an ACMG Alpine Guide from North Vancouver, BC. He began climbing in Squamish in the late 90's and was inspired by guides to take his passion for climbing higher, into the mountains. One of his greatest joys is facilitating similar experiences to other people, directing their lives towards the mountains and giving back to the sport that has given him so much.