Best of the Bugaboos 2018

Explore Canada’s premier alpine rock climbing destination

Classic routes, beautiful lines, and stunning summits: the Bugaboos have it all. The area is home to two of the famous ’50 Classic Climbs of North America.’ Our long-running Best of the Bugaboos camp is your opportunity to reach the top of classic summits, get a taste of alpine rock climbing, or come back for another shot at the climbs on your bucket list. Stand on the summit of the Crescent Towers and take in the surrounding spires and tumbling glaciers. Tiptoe around the gendarme on the classic Kain route up Bugaboo Spire. Cruise up beautiful granite cracks. Challenge yourself with exhilarating exposure as you cross exposed rock ridges. 

If your goal is to climb the classics, this low-ratio, fully-catered camp is designed to get you there.

Guiding

Our 2:1 guiding ratio (2 clients per guide) will give you the best possible chance of success. The small groups mean that you can split up based on objectives and pacing, and get the individualized attention needed to tackle more challenging alpine rock routes.  

This camp is guided by Association of Canadian Mountain Guides-certified Alpine and Apprentice Alpine guides. If you’re coming back for a second year, you’ll recognize most of the same faces. Our guides have years of experience guiding in the Bugaboos, and have guided both classic routes and lesser-known gems.

 

Possible Objectives

  • Kain Route (Bugaboo Spire); 5.6
  • NE Ridge (Bugaboo Spire); 5.8
  • West Ridge (Pigeon Spire); 5.4
  • Wildflowers (Snowpatch Spire); 5.9
  • Bugaboo Corner (Snowpatch Spire; 5.9
  • Pigeon Feathers traverse; 4th class
  • Ears Between; 5.7
  • East Ridge (Marmolata); 5.6
  • Lion’s Way; 5.6
  • Surf’s Up; 5.9

Sample day

Wake up before the sunrise, and enjoy a simple but hearty breakfast. Pick up your packs that you put together the night before, and tiptoe out of the hut to avoid disturbing the other guests. As the sun comes up behind you, you’ll make your way by headlamp up to the toe of the glacier. You leave the Kain hut and your first day’s objective, 2728m Eastpost Spire, behind as you head up the Crescent Glacier.
You’re in luck: it has been a good snow year, and the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col is in good condition. Your guides coach you up the steep snow slopes, moving quickly through the col.
The West Ridge of Pigeon Spire is one of the classics of the Bugaboos. While the climbing is mostly straightforward, the exposure is spectacular. Your guides transition between pitched out climbing and short roping, moving as quickly and efficiently as possible. The route follows the ridge up the spire, then traverses along the exposed knife-edge ridgetop. If you were a metre off the ground, the famous ‘au cheval’ (alpinist for ‘bum scooch’) section wouldn’t be much of a challenge. With 300m+ of exposure on either side of you, though, simple moves take more care and thought. A last, short section of climbing takes you to the summit. The 360-degree panorama of potential climbs whets your appetite for the following days. The descent follows the ascent route, with a combination of downclimbing and rappelling. You re-trace your steps down the glacier and through the boulder field to the hut.

Back at the hut, everybody pitches in to help out with the kitchen chores. You prepare your hearty dinner (an appetizer, main course, and dessert) that the porters have carried up to the hut for you. Now that everybody has a taste for the climbing style of the Bugaboos, your guides discuss objectives for the following days. Your group heads to bed early so that you can make another early start, and tick as many Bugaboos classics as possible off of your bucket lists over the next three days.

Catering

Once at the trailhead, all of the logistics are taken care of to allow you to focus on the climbing. Participants meet in Brisco, BC, and carpool to the Kain Hut trailhead. Porters carry your group’s food into the hut to keep packs light on the ascent. 

The Kain hut is a comfortable base for your Bugaboos exploration. The hut provides a kitchen with running water, a heated common area to socialize in the evenings or on rain days, foam sleeping pads, and a micro-hydro generator in a nearby creek.

Level of Difficulty:Moderate

This camp welcomes those who are physically fit and have previous mountaineering, multi-pitch rock climbing and/or glacier travel experience. You should be prepared for physically-challenging days, including walking long distances and climbing with a pack. 

REgister Now

  •  July 23rd - 27th
  •  July 30th - August 3rd
  • $1,995 + tax
Register Now (Week #1) Register Now (Week #2) Gear List

Camp Itinerary

  • Day 1 – Meet 8:00 am at the general store in Brisco, BC. Equipment check, divide up gear and organize carpooling to the trailhead. 7km hike to the Conrad Kain Hut. Safety review and option for short hike.
  • Day 2 - 4 – Each day you'll make an attempt on a mulitpitch trad route on the Bugaboos' magical granite. Route selection will be made by the guide based on conditions and the group's input and ability
  • Day 5 – Short climb in the morning and hike back to parking lot in the afternoon.

Gear, Food & Lodging

INCLUDED
  • Guiding throughout the camp
  • Accommodation for 4 nights at the Conrad Kain Hut
  • All meals from lunch on Day 1 until lunch on Day 5
  • All group gear
PARTICIPANTS MUST PROVIDE
  • Transportation to the meeting place in Brisco and onward to the trailhead (carpooling will be encouraged)
  • Breakfast on Day 1
  • All personal Gear (see 'Equipment List' above)

Cancellation policy and travel Insurance

Please be sure to review our cancellation policy before registering for ACC Adventures:
 
Cancellation Policy
We sell Tugo® Travel Insurance suitable for both ACC Adventures and personal trips

Travel Insurance

  • “The course covered everything I had hoped would be covered. I got to lead…, I got to climb steep ice (a lot), I got coaching on how to climb steep ice. I learned how to dry tool. I learned new techniques in belaying, rapping, leading, anchor systems, etc.”
  • “The best for me was adding the new skill set of dry tooling and mixed climbing. I also appreciated that Sean worked to challenge me and increase my skill level.”
  • “To me the guides stood out as the best thing. It was my first time using hired guides and I wasn’t sure how relaxed I would be with them. It was like having a very experienced friend hanging out and having fun safely.”
- Past Early Season Ice Camp Participants-

Best of the Bugs 2018 Staff

Patrick Lindsay

There is something to be said about great days in the mountains, and something even more when it’s the Bugaboos! I love this place and am looking forward to sharing many great days with you, my ACC comrades, during the Best of the Bugs! I started my guiding career after a passion of mountain travel lead me to an Adventure Guide Program through Thompson Rivers University, and then onto the ACMG’s rock and alpine guiding programs (Association of Canadian Mountain Guides). I am proud to be an ACMG Apprentice Alpine Guide, and feel fortunate to share some great days in the Bugs with great ACC members. Lets have fun, learn some skills, and leave with great memories that we can share with our family and friends! In the end, it’s all about the memories!

Monte Johnson

Monte’s a Civil Engineer turned guide. And while he’s based in Squamish, BC he’s as likely to be found in the Rockies or Selkirk mountains as the Coast Range. Monte spends the majority of his summers guiding in the alpine and teaching mountaineering courses though he loves running up a multi-pitch rock climb on a warm day. His winters are split between ice climbing and ski touring/heli skiing. In his down time the self-proclaimed gear junky writes reviews on climbing and ski related gear for various organizations including his own website: blacksheepadventuresports.com. .

Jeff Bullock

Jeff Bullock is an ACMG/IFMGA mountain guide who began his career leading trips as a volunteer for the ACC and has worked as a guide since 2002. It all began when skiing and snowboarding as a teenager fueled his passion and curiosity for the mountains. Hiking and snowboarding were the gateway to rock, ice and alpine climbing and a love for guiding people from all over the world. Jeff looks forward to meeting you for some skiing, climbing and good times and adventures.

Larry Shiu

Originally from Taiwan, Larry started to rock climb and explore the mountains in 2000. In 2007, Larry traveled to Canada and took Yamnuska’s three- month Mountain Skills Semester program. This trip opened his eyes and changed his life. Glaciated peaks, big rock walls, and the powder snow completely embraced his heart. He soon decided to move to Canada to pursue a mountain life. Larry now loves nothing more than taking every moment to explore the mountains with his guests and friends. A renowned ice climber, Larry became the poster boy for the 42nd annual Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival. Larry calls Canmore home but whenever he is free from work, he enjoys travelling around the world to find new climbing destinations.

Larry is an ACMG Apprentice Alpine guide.