Mountaineering Base in the Tantalus Range
The Jim Haberl Hut is located in the Tantalus Range, just northwest
of Squamish, BC. It is located at 2,030 m (6,660 ft) elevation in the
Serratus-Dione Col, about a 6-hour hike above Lake Lovely Water and the
Tantalus Hut or a full 14 hours (usually done over two days) from the
Squamish River. The site is located on the edge of Tantalus Provincial
Park at 551600 northerly/477800 easterly on map 92G/14 (Cheakamus
River).
The hut is a single story wood frame structure with metal
roofing and cladding. There is a large kitchen and sitting room with
wonderful views to the north, south and west. There are also two
sleeping rooms with bunks for 6 people each. While the hut is kept
locked, there is an unlocked vestibule for emergency use.
The
mountaineering terrain around the hut is dramatic and most suitable for
intermediate and advanced climbers. There is a wide variety of mixed
snow and rock routes of various grades on peaks such as: Tantalus 2,603 m
(8,540 ft); Dione 2,590 m (8,500 ft); Alpha 2,305 m (7,562 ft);
Serratus 2,326 m (7,632 ft) and others. The hut is conveniently located
for climbers doing the full traverse of the Tantalus Range. Climbing in
the area is covered in Climbing and Hiking in Southwestern B.C. by Bruce
Fairley, and in Alpine Select by Kevin McLane.
The terrain is not
suitable for general ski touring due to the avalanche hazard, however
steep skiing and snowboarding is possible by experienced parties during
spring months. Several paragliders have enjoyed flights from the
Serratus-Dione Col to the Squamish Valley.